Searsucker
Seersucker.
Defined as, a thin, puckered, all-cotton fabric, commonly striped or chequered, used to make clothing for spring and summer wear.
But this is Searsucker. That might be your definition but this is mine. American Modern cuisine with a reminiscent kick of childhood.
I’ve waited to post about this place because I’ve gone back several times to get a better feel for it. It wasn’t hard to grasp but it was so brilliant I couldn’t see it right there in front of me.
This restaurant is what the strip needed. It doesn’t take itself too seriously, it doesn’t jack up prices or require you to sit on a month long waiting list. Searsucker is the slightliy upscale version of your favorite neighborhood bar and grill. Which of course comes with all that is the San Diego Gas Lamp Neighborhood.
Chef Brian Malarkey brings out his inner child in every aspect of this menu and scene. He’s also often seen amongst the guests talking and explaining the food. This is unheard of on the strip. It’s sad but true. Which again, is why this restaurant is such a welcomed change to THIS neighborhood.
I’ve sampled a pretty decent percentage of the menu. Everything from the cheddar puffs, to the Brussel sprouts to the Pork Butt, all have unique plays of the traditional concept of how they should be brought into a meal. And you can expect a nice kick in everything you order, even your drinks. I really enjoy this restaurant, i'm having a hard time coming up with any objective views and for that I apologize.
One of my favorite starter dishes would be the Farm bird Lollipops. I figured these would be the fancy frenched Chicken wing made to look like the childhood treat…but it wasn’t. It’s a spicy sweet chicken meatball that melts in your mouth. They give you five but I promise you’ll want ten more.
Now this may seem weird but I’m going to let you in on a little secret. There are two sides on the menu you absolutely need in your life. They’re classics. Your mom probably had one at every other meal and the other probably spent half of your life trying to get you to eat. Buttery Potatoes and Brussel sprouts. Basic right? Wrong. These potatoes are velvety smooth. I don’t even wan to know how much butter and cream they used to make these perfect whipped potatoes and quite frankly I’m ok with that. The Brussel sprouts should be illegal. Not because they’re on the menu but because they’re amazing. No, they unbelievable. They’re crispy, chewy, sweet, crunchy, salty and….bacony. These are so good they can’t be healthy. You can tell your mom they are though. And you can thank me after.
Now me personally, I recommend the Pork Butt. But if you’re looking for something fresher, get the scallops. I know for a fact that the Hanger Steak is another “cant miss” but we’re focusing on the Pork butt here. Its cooked until is falls apart with a fork. They top it with crispy, whiskey infused apples that give it a sweet and tart crunch on top. Its finished off with a salty bacon emulsion that I don believe could have been paired better by god himself. The ultimate salty sweet mans meal you’ll want to go back for…and I have.
Dessert-wise, anything goes. The smores bar is indescribably delicious but what I really need you to now about is the Cookies and Milk. Its classic…but at home, not at a restaurant right? Wrong. This is everything. Freshly baked cookies and an ice cold glass of milk to finish of your grown up meal in the most playful way imaginable.
Honorable mentions: Duck fat fries (ridiculously crispy). Cowboy Caviar (Ok, its bull testicles but be adventurous, that’s what this menu urges you to do).